How To Tell if Furniture is Antique or Reproduction

Distinguishing genuine antique furniture from reproductions requires examining construction methods, materials, and wear patterns that machines and modern craftsmen can’t replicate. This guide covers the specific details to check before buying: dovetail joints, wood characteristics, hardware, and patina. These techniques work whether you’re browsing Denio’s furniture aisles or evaluating pieces at Sacramento estate sales.

Reproductions aren’t inherently bad purchases. A well-made reproduction can serve you for decades. But you should know what you’re paying for. A genuine 1880s oak dresser commands $400 to $800 at Sacramento markets. A 1980s reproduction of the same style runs $75 to $150. The construction tells you which is which.

Quick Answer: Check drawer construction first. Hand-cut dovetails (irregular, fewer pins) indicate pre-1890 construction. Machine-cut dovetails (uniform, tight spacing) appeared after 1890. Look for secondary wood (poplar, pine) on drawer bottoms and backs. Genuine antiques show wear where hands actually touched: drawer pulls, arm rests, seat edges. Reproductions often fake wear in wrong locations.

The Five-Point Check

Every piece of furniture tells its age through construction details invisible to casual browsers. Train yourself to check these five points before negotiating price.

1. Dovetail Joints

Pull out a drawer. Look at the corner joints where the front meets the sides.

Hand-cut dovetails (pre-1890): Irregular spacing. Fewer, larger pins. Slight variations between joints. The craftsman cut these with hand tools, and no two cuts match exactly. Scribe marks sometimes visible where the maker traced the pattern.

Machine-cut dovetails (1890-present): Uniform spacing. More pins, tighter together. Every joint identical. Precise and mechanical. Machine dovetails indicate the piece is no older than 130 years, but most machine-dovetailed furniture at flea markets dates from 1920 to 1970.

No dovetails: Drawers assembled with nails, screws, or staples suggest post-1950 mass production or cheap construction. Some legitimate antiques used rabbeted joints, but combined with other modern features, lack of dovetails raises questions.

2. Wood Examination

Antique furniture uses different wood for visible surfaces versus hidden construction.

Primary wood: The visible exterior. Oak, walnut, mahogany, cherry, or maple depending on era and origin. American oak furniture dominated 1880 to 1920. Mahogany suggests Georgian or Federal periods (1720-1830). Walnut peaked in Victorian era (1840-1900).

Secondary wood: Drawer bottoms, backs, interior framing. Genuine American antiques typically use poplar, pine, or tulipwood for secondary construction. English pieces use oak or deal (European pine). If the drawer bottom is plywood or particleboard, the piece is post-1920 at earliest, more likely post-1950.

Wood shrinkage: Real antiques show wood movement from centuries of humidity cycles. Round tabletops become slightly oval. Drawer bottoms pull away from their grooves. Panel doors show gaps at joints. This natural movement is nearly impossible to fake convincingly.

3. Hardware

Pulls, hinges, and locks reveal age and authenticity.

Original hardware: Look for hand-forged iron or cast brass on pieces claiming pre-1850 origin. Hand-cut screws (pre-1850) have off-center slots and irregular threads. Machine-made screws became standard after 1850. Phillips head screws indicate post-1930 work.

Replacement hardware: Common and not disqualifying. Generations of owners replaced worn pulls. But check the holes: if current hardware sits in different positions than original mounting holes, someone upgraded. Original hardware mounting holes (now empty) tell you the piece’s age even if the current pulls are newer.

Bail pulls and backplates: Georgian and Federal pieces used bail (swinging) pulls with decorative backplates. Victorian pieces favored turned wooden knobs or teardrop pulls. Examining pull styles helps date the piece, assuming hardware is original.

4. Tool Marks and Finish

How the wood was shaped reveals when it was shaped.

Hand plane marks: Look at drawer bottoms and furniture backs with a light raking across the surface. Hand-planed surfaces show slight undulations and irregular striations. Circular saw marks (curved parallel lines) indicate machine processing after 1830. Band saw marks (straight parallel lines) suggest post-1850.

Finish layers: Genuine antiques accumulate finish over time. Original shellac or oil finish darkened by age, perhaps with later varnish applications. A single thick coat of modern polyurethane over “antique” wood suggests refinishing or reproduction.

Stain penetration: On genuinely old wood, stain penetrates deeply over decades. Freshly stained reproductions show color sitting on the surface. Scratch a hidden area gently: surface-only color suggests recent work.

5. Wear Patterns

Authentic wear appears where hands and bodies actually contacted the furniture.

Genuine wear locations: Drawer pull areas show finish wear from decades of hands. Chair arm ends smooth from countless grips. Table edges round from years of contact. Stretchers between chair legs wear from feet resting on them. Desk writing surfaces show ink stains and scratches.

Fake wear signs: Distressing applied with chains, rocks, or sanders creates random damage that doesn’t match use patterns. “Wormholes” drilled in straight lines or geometric patterns rather than the random paths of actual insects. Wear on areas that wouldn’t receive contact. Uniform distressing rather than concentrated wear at contact points.

Common Reproductions at Sacramento Markets

Certain furniture styles appear frequently as reproductions. Learn to spot them.

Victorian “Eastlake”

Genuine Eastlake pieces (1870-1890) feature incised geometric decoration and rectilinear forms. Reproductions made in the 1970s and 1980s, when Victorian revival was popular, often use particleboard under veneer. Check drawer bottoms. Original Eastlake used solid secondary wood.

Mission/Arts and Crafts

The Arts and Crafts revival of the 1990s flooded the market with Mission-style reproductions. Genuine Stickley, Limbert, and Roycroft pieces command thousands of dollars. Reproductions from Pottery Barn or similar retailers cost $200 to $800 when new and appear at estate sales regularly. Check for maker’s marks, construction quality, and quartersawn oak with strong medullary ray figure on genuine pieces.

“Golden Oak”

Mass-produced oak furniture from 1890 to 1920 fills Sacramento flea markets. Not all of it is genuine. Later reproductions from the 1970s oak revival use thinner construction, plywood backing, and modern hardware. The 1890s originals weigh significantly more due to thick solid wood construction.

Hoosier Cabinets

Genuine Hoosier-brand cabinets and competitors like Sellers and Napanee (1900-1940) appear regularly at Denio’s. Reproductions lack the original hardware, flour sifters, and built-in features. Original pieces have manufacturer’s labels inside doors or on the back. Check for metal bread drawers, original glass knobs, and roll-top tambour doors that operate smoothly.

Price Expectations at Sacramento Markets

Knowing market values helps you evaluate whether a piece is priced as genuine antique or reproduction.

Genuine Victorian dressers (1860-1900): $300 to $800 depending on size and condition. Marble tops add $100 to $200.

Victorian reproduction dressers (1970s-1990s): $75 to $200.

Genuine oak dining sets (1890-1920): Table with six chairs runs $400 to $900. Round pedestal tables with claw feet at the higher end.

Oak reproduction sets (1970s-1990s): $150 to $350.

Genuine Hoosier cabinets: $400 to $1,200 depending on completeness and condition.

Hoosier-style reproductions: $100 to $300.

If a price seems too good for what’s claimed, investigate why. Either the seller doesn’t know what they have, or the piece isn’t what it appears.

When You’re Not Sure

Some pieces require expert evaluation. Don’t guess on expensive purchases.

Local Appraisal Resources

Schiff Estate Services (1309 Del Paso Boulevard, Sacramento) offers formal appraisals. Gary Schiff and Danyelle Petersen hold Certified Appraisers Guild of America credentials. For significant purchases, a $50 to $100 appraisal fee protects against $500 mistakes.

Staff at 57th Street Antique Mall and Antique Trove Roseville can often provide informal assessments. They see thousands of pieces and develop strong pattern recognition. A quick “what do you think of this piece?” costs nothing and may save you from a bad purchase.

Research Before You Buy

Smartphone research at the market helps. Search maker’s marks, patent dates, or specific style names. Compare asking prices against recent eBay sold listings and 1stDibs prices for similar pieces. If the seller claims a $2,000 value on a piece selling for $400, verify that $2,000 is real before assuming you’ve found a bargain.

What Dealer Guarantees Mean

Established dealers at antique malls often guarantee authenticity. Ask about return policies before purchasing. A dealer confident in their merchandise will stand behind it. Reluctance to discuss guarantees suggests uncertainty about the piece.

Reproductions Worth Buying

Not every purchase needs to be a genuine antique.

Quality reproductions serve functional purposes. A well-made reproduction dining table sees daily use while the genuine antique stays protected. Reproduction hardware lets you restore pieces missing original pulls. Reproduction upholstery fabric matches period patterns for proper restoration.

The key is paying reproduction prices for reproduction pieces. A $200 Mission-style bookcase from the 1990s functions fine as furniture. Just don’t pay $800 believing it’s a genuine Stickley.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I tell if furniture is antique or reproduction?

Check drawer construction first. Hand-cut dovetails with irregular spacing indicate pre-1890 construction. Look for secondary wood (poplar, pine) on hidden surfaces rather than plywood. Examine wear patterns: genuine antiques show wear where hands actually touched, while reproductions often fake distressing in wrong locations.

What makes furniture officially “antique”?

The trade standard defines antiques as items at least 100 years old. By 2024, that means pieces made before 1924 qualify as antiques. Items 50 to 100 years old are typically called “vintage.” Items under 50 years old are “used” or “contemporary.”

Are reproductions worth buying?

Yes, when priced appropriately. Quality reproductions from the 1970s through 1990s often feature solid wood construction and good craftsmanship. They function well as furniture. The issue arises when reproductions are sold at antique prices. Know what you’re buying and pay accordingly.

How do I identify the age of furniture hardware?

Hand-forged iron or cast brass with hand-cut screws (off-center slots, irregular threads) indicates pre-1850 origin. Machine-made screws with centered slots appeared after 1850. Phillips head screws indicate post-1930 work. Bail pulls with decorative backplates suggest Georgian or Federal era (1720-1830).

Where can I get antique furniture appraised in Sacramento?

Schiff Estate Services at 1309 Del Paso Boulevard offers formal appraisals by credentialed appraisers. Staff at major antique malls like 57th Street and Antique Trove Roseville can provide informal assessments. For valuable pieces, professional appraisal fees ($50-$100) protect against costly mistakes.